In September 2010 I received an email from Clipper HQ asking for crew to deliver 2 of the Clipper 68's to La Rochelle (and back again). This was to celebrate the beginning of the Velux 5 Oceans race. A prestigious single-handed event which would see Chris Stanmore-Major (CSM) take on a number of other skippers for this amazing single-handed title.
CSM had just returned from skippering one of the entries in the 09-10 race. It must have been non-stop for him to come off of one boat and literally jump on to the next to undertake another circumnavigation!
I eagerly responded to Clippers' email, and was duly told that I would be crewing on the return delivery back to Gosport. I booked a flight out of Eastleigh airport and I was all set! After the awesome week I'd had on level 1, I couldn't wait to get on one of the actual 'racing yachts'!
I was now beginning to buy up all the sailing gear I'd need, sleeping bag being one of them. Now these things can get very expensive, but I was lucky to get a good price from my Guass sleeping bag. Basically a huge 'water-proof' quilt that wraps itself around you nicely.
I flew out to La Rochelle, having met one or two of the crew at the airport. Once we'd landed we collected our baggage and took on the first challenge...ordering a taxi in french! Luckily one of the crew could speak the lingo and managed to get us a lift to the harbour.
I had never been to La Rochelle before but I was amazed by it's beauty! Old battlements and fortifications protect the main harbour, and dozens of street cafes adorn the quay side!
The boats were out on a corporate sail (Clipper regularly have to 'schmooze' some of their sponsors with a jaunt in one of the 68's). As they were not due to return until the evening, we thought we'd indulge in some of the inviting cafes/bars/restaurants to kill the time. It was a great time to get to know the guys I'd flown over with. Again they were a mixed bag of personalities/professions and backgrounds! The guys were pleasant enough, but I couldn't help but feel a bit excluded. It's hard to write that as before and since that particular experience I have always got on so well with everyone I have met/sailed with. Maybe it was the fact that I was only one who had only completed level 1 training (everyone else was vastly more experienced). Maybe the guys were preoccupied with the challenge that lay ahead, I'm not sure.
The evening came to an end and it was time to find our boats. I finally arrived on board CV8, where I found everyone already sat in the saloon receiving their safety briefing from the Skipper: Piers Dudin. Great first impression Gary..Late!
Once the briefing had finished I apologised again to Piers and he kindly took me over the parts I'd missed. I was pleased to see a friendly face amongst the group: Al, who was our first mate on the the level 1 from June!
After an all too brief nights sleep we slipped our mooring lines at 5:30am. This would be my first experience the watch system. This would involve a rotating system of 4 hours on / 4 hours off watch.
We motored for the duration of my first watch. Not a breath of wind to be had as we made our way out into the Bay of Biscay (a place notorious for it's changeable weather patterns). We went to our bunks at the end of our watch and slept very well.
I was awoken by the most horrendous sound of grinding metal, and complaining fibre-glass! After coming too a little I realised that the mainsail was being winched up on the 'coffee grinder' -a super winch operated by two people - something new to me as this was a very different boat from the '60 I'd sailed with Al in June '10! I was having to learn a lot of new things about this boat as we went along.
The wind had finally arrived, and the world took on a new 45 degree angle! We had picked up a bit of a swell also! This meant that not only did we roll side to side, but we were pitching wildly (bow and stern taking on a 'see-sawing' like action)!
This was my first experience of 'ocean sailing'! And I had forgotten to bring any form of sea-sickness prevention/treatment! Low and behold, the queasy feeling set in by the end of my first watch under sail. I attempted to eat some spag-bol, but it totally triggered me off! That was it, there I was on the lee-ward rail, chucking my guts up!
The conditions worsened, and so did my sea-sickness! I managed to function as crew member (putting reefs in and helping with a sail change). At the end of my watch I would race to my bunk, peeling my life-jacket and wet weather gear off as quickly as I could before I began 'dry wretching'. Sometimes I'd just collapse in the Saloon and keep my gear on. The only luxury that made a difference was my Guass sleeping bag. At times I'd climb into it shivering and cold, and I'd be warm and dry in no time! Heaven!! When on deck I found that Helming the boat actually helped quite a lot. I was struggling to eat anything though. I was drinking plenty of water, but couldn't stomach any food. Luckily I had brought a bag or two of Haribo
It is said that with sea-sickness takes the sufferer through two phases: Phase 1: You think you are going to die. Phase 2: You wish you could die! It has to be said that for 3 days I went through a very low place. I'd signed up to take part in this epic adventure, and I wasn't enjoying it in the slightest! I truly was suffering for the challenge!
The only moments that distracted me from my illness and nausea were when pods of dolphins came up and swam with the boat! Amazing! My first 'wild' dolphins! It was nothing short of magical! Especially at night, in the pitch blackness, and all you could hear was this sharp/short blow of air, and a splash. Occasionally you'd see a shape, but you could hear them more than anything (no moon or star light to see by).
The other amazing thing I witnessed was 'phospherance' in our wake. I had read about it in books, but never expected to see it so close to Europe (thinking it was something only common in the tropics)! It was mesmerizing! like watching a million fireworks going off! As if the boat was being carried along on a bed of electrical charges!
Despite these amazing experiences, it really made me question if I wanted to do this. Part of me was thinking that Sir Robin could take his challenge and...... well you know the rest!
We rounded the Cherbourg Peninsula at the end of the third day. I myself turned a corner too! I began to eat again! Good job as well as I was on 'mother watch'. If this responsibility had happened earlier in the trip I would not have been able to do it! All I can say is that the food was incredible! Living off of haribo for three days gave me a new appreciation of 'stew'!
I did meet some great people whilst on this journey. Piers, Al, Byrony, Steve, Wendy, Jim and Martin. All were very supportive and understanding. Some suffered along with me, which made me feel a bit better as I realised I wasn't alone! It was a great opportunity to speak at length to Piers. He had skipped Hull & Humber around the world in the 09-10 race. He had had his trip cut short when he broke his leg crossing the Pacific. Having sailed with him I understood why he is such a respected Skipper in the Clipper world. I picked up so much good advice from him that has held me in good stead ever since. He reassured those of us who were sea-sick that on the race we would not be beating into the wind the whole way (as we were doing at present).
As we sailed up the English Channel, and past St Katherine's Point (Isle Wight) our watch turned in. The oncoming watch took us in to Gosport and moored up. We awoke at 7am...having slept straight for 8 hours, I found the boat a very quiet and tranquil place again.
I stretched and made my way to the galley where someone was busy brewing up the tea and getting breakfast underway. The smell of toast filled the saloon (it was fantastic!). I took a turn on the deck, and all was quiet in Clarence Marina. The fleet was all together for the first time in a long while. It was a very inspirational sight.
After the deep clean had been completed I made my way back to the ferry terminal to catch the boat to Pompey, and homeward bound on the train.
It was a journey home spent deep in thought. I had certainly had a very mixed experience! I had had my first taste of 'ocean' sailing, under a watch system. I had also experienced the dreaded sea-sickness (and learnt that there is indeed life after sea-sickness!!). I'd managed to keep working when all I wanted to do was languish in my bunk. It had certainly been tough, possible one of the toughest things I'd ever done to date. There had been times when I possibly might have quit (if there had been the opportunity to step off the boat), and doubts on whether I could 'cut it'.
In my mind I knew I only had a month until my Level II training. Armed with the 'hard earned' 510 nautical miles worth of experience I had gained from this voyage, I was determined to apply what I had learned and try again.
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